佑群老師｜三原康裕，用鞋子走向世界的日本新銳設計師。

12月 31 週六 201100:08
佑群老師｜三原康裕，用鞋子走向世界的日本新銳設計師。

撰文 / 李佑群(Yougun Lee)
照片提供 / MIHARAYASUHIRO、PUMA

提到日本新一代設計師，就不能不談三原康裕。長相斯文帥氣，私下酷愛衝浪的三原康裕，
是我非常喜歡又尊敬的一位時尚人。三原從日本多摩美術大學畢業後，赴英國倫敦深造，
創作的作品總是充滿了濃厚的藝術思想，甚至在最近幾年不斷躍上米蘭與巴黎時裝週，
成為西方眼中新一代日本菁英設計師的代表。「MIHARAYASUHIRO」，
品牌名稱乃三原康裕名字的日文發音，而最為人所知應該是從與PUMA的合作開始。

● 以2012年英國倫敦奧運為發想的PUMA X MIHARAYASUHIRO系列之 “MY Tennis Lo Union Jack”。
（ NT$6380 / 預計四月上市）

其實三原康裕的設計最早是從女鞋開始，在從事時尚工作的過程裡，我拜訪了他的工作室好多次，
每一次他總是能對我的提問侃侃而談。創作鞋子的生涯中，他曾經來過台灣的台中工廠好幾次，
卻總是與台北擦肩而過，因此，對於台灣的印象比起我們更為庶民而有趣，他曾經告訴我，
「女人最美就是穿上高跟鞋的時候」。確實，三原康裕對於鞋子的工藝要求，
保持著日本職人挑剔的精神，而真正開始走入國際，也真的要拜國際大牌PUMA之慧眼所賜。

● 除了濃厚的英倫氣息外，“MY Tennis Mid Union Jack”融合70及90年代的復古風格也深深吸引我。
（NT$6780 / 預計2月上市)

本次PUMA Black Label2012春夏系列其中，再度與三原康裕攜手合作，
以三原康裕曾經生活過、2012夏季奧運的舉辦地英國倫敦為發想，融合奧運元素與70年代、
90年代休閒鞋及慢跑鞋的概念，推出了MY Tennis Lo Union Jack
及MY Tennis Mid Union Jack兩款前衛鞋款，鞋筒部分沿用2008年春夏系列M-35的金屬皮革鞋身設計，
最吸引人的莫過於鞋身前方混搭了英國國旗的圖案，以紅、藍、白三色混搭，堪稱「儀式節日的追隨者」。
其他的三原康裕合作款式，包括運用塑膠材質的斜角輪廓、覆蓋動物爬蟲圖案等等，皆以獨特的細節展現三原康裕的魅力。

●新一季春夏的主角是針織衫，灰白色針織拼接尼龍布料的上衣、不同毛線編織出好像打翻的水彩一樣的多彩開襟衫、
以及宛如假上衣可以隨性綑綁的褲款，都讓人驚嘆。

此外，由於311日本東北強震之故，三原康裕希望將無情的天災與珍惜生命的精神融入品牌新作，
於是在2012年春夏MIHARAYASUHIRO新裝發表中，強化了反諷人類過度消費造成地球浩劫的概念。
我們可以看到，即便是春夏依然堅持以深色、陰鬱的灰藍表現服飾，棉質、針織、棉麻混紡為主的質材，
利用擅長的異材質拼接，將服裝的版型變得更加有趣，不變的是依循一貫的英倫紳士風範，
西裝外套搭配馬褲與長靴成為主流。

●下半身以優雅經典的毛呢灰色西裝褲呈現，上半身卻利用渲染般的煙燻粉紅棉質西裝外套與寬鬆T恤製造衝突感，
產生末日般的頹廢味道。

  ●全身皆以較柔軟的棉質與針織衫打造，寬鬆的棉質短褲搭配黑色針織衫與同樣圖案的開襟衫，
上面的印花讓我聯想到無情的海嘯。

當然，仔細端詳可以發現，MIHARAYASUHIRO依舊堅持鞋款的精湛創作，比方各種造型感強烈的短靴、
宛如斷一截的有趣皮鞋、日本摺紙藝術的運動鞋等等，經過大地震的震撼，三原康裕想要告訴世人，
「世界上沒有所謂日常或普通的事物」。所有的創作看似平凡，因為看的眼光不同，也都可以找到獨特性，
因此，時時刻刻珍惜身邊的每一件人事物，或許是來到2012年最重要的心境改變。

  ●西裝外套半邊迷彩圖案宛如水彩般的漸漸淡出，對稱而傳統的紳士造型中有著不對稱的新鮮圖案，
令人感受到某種憂鬱的紳士味道。

●自然皺褶感的小羊皮騎士外套在袖攏的處理上刻意寬鬆與不規則，正如同下半身的短褲看似馬褲卻又在褲檔處製造垂墜感，
演繹平凡中的不平凡。
素材提供｜©《Men's JOKER型男志》中國大陸版 by Yougun Lee（圖片未經同意請勿隨意轉載）

李佑群老師

從事時尚工作十數年，《幸喜國際》社長暨時尚總監，與東京時尚界關係深厚，
以時尚為核心橫跨國際造型師、雜誌總編輯、品牌總監、視覺統籌、評論家、作家、顧問等多元角色。
是華人圈時尚雜誌創刊數最多的總編輯，也是引進第一本日系時尚雜誌的總編輯。
同時是台灣唯一受日本藝人、國際品牌、廣告指定合作造型師&顧問。
合作對象包括中田英壽、松田龍平、渡邊知夏子、賀軍翔、飛輪海、歌手OLIVIA、UNIQLO、
花王、資生堂、Longchamp、 PUMA、Roger Vivier等，
並與《ViVi》當家名模渡邊知夏子合作女裝品牌MyGazine Girl。

最近最重要作品除了擔任UNIQLO日本指定之2011年秋冬廣告形象及台北旗艦店
《People Campaign~Voice》總顧問外，同時兼任《Yahoo!時尚美妝》總編輯顧問、
《Men’s JOKER》中國大陸版創意總監、《女人我最大》達人老師&雜誌顧問、
《mina》及《女人我最大》馬來西亞版總顧問等。固定節目包括《女人我最大》、
《Taipei in Design設計師大賽》等。出版著作包括《東京密旅書》、《日本時尚考》，
同時在多本時尚雜誌連載專欄。

●李佑群老師《Yahoo!奇摩時尚名家專欄》
http://tw.fashion.yahoo.com/blog/AeQf2a5Jcv.29GPx8WGmQQ--/archive/

●李佑群老師官方部落格
http://www.wretch.cc/blog/eddy0318

●李佑群老師官方FACEBOOK粉絲頁
http://www.facebook.com/yougunlee

李佑群老師

《ROOM207》李佑群老師官方部落格 Yougun Lee's official blog

李佑群老師發表在痞客邦留言(193) 人氣(191)

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